"Waves can't be the god of the sport; if they were, we would all live in Hawaii . It has got to be getting out in it that counts -- surfing because you love to surf, and getting pumped full of life and whip and snap. I used to ride junk waves all day long, training for the good moments. You do this, and one day you are sitting out there all alone, waiting for a set, and someone will paddle up and ask how the surf is. 'Man,' you tell them, 'you should have been here an hour ago.'"
-Phil Edwards![]() |
| Artwork Ken Auster |


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