As good as anywhere in the world...

Surfer's Point, Ventura, CA Late Fall, 2014

Photo by Matt Wyatt website

“Your local break often turns out to be your favorite break. No matter where you go, you remember those two or three days when your local break is as good as anywhere in the world. You live for that.” -Yvon Chouinard, Surfer’s Path Magazine, 12/04

More Surf Quotes...

This quote from another master surfer/shaper helps me get through the "dry spells"...like today.
Lopez was asked how he manages to live in Bend, OR, so far from the ocean and surfing.

‘There are always moments in surfing that hold you over-that’s the thing. It really doesn’t take much. For me, it’s always been a moment here or a moment there: a good turn, a tube, a drop, those kinds of things can carry you for a long time, months, sometimes years.”

-Gerry Lopez, “The Surfer Interview” September, 2004

I have a few "mind-videos" that I replay when I haven't surfed in a while. None look like the above, however...

Surf Quote....

"Waves can't be the god of the sport; if they were, we would all live in Hawaii.  It has got to be getting out in it that counts -- surfing because you love to surf, and getting pumped full of life and whip and snap.  I used to ride junk waves all day long, training for the good moments.  You do this, and one day you are sitting out there all alone, waiting for a set, and someone will paddle up and ask how the surf is.  'Man,' you tell them, 'you should have been here an hour ago.'"

-Phil Edwards

Artwork Ken Auster

Phil Edwards is one of my surfer/shaper heroes. I think the Phil Edwards Model Hobie is one of the most beautiful LB shapes ever created. (He was responsible for the Hobie Cat design as well)